Ever since AA Gill outed this unprepossessing restaurant on Shoreditch’s Vietnamese strip in 2010, the place has been ritually packed out despite the tacky décor, plastic flowers and close-set tables. Other restaurants down the Kingsland road may be (much, much) better looking, but the food at Mien Tay delivers. Yes, as Gill suggests, try the goat galangal; its coconutty sweetness combined with the gameyness of goat will rock your world. Also not to be missed is the honey-roasted quail, which is almost too good to share – it is such a heart-breakingly dinky bird – and is best enjoyed slathered in the chilli salt it comes with. Don’t expect silver service; this is a laid back, chaotic, down and dirty kind of place, but who cares? Book ahead, order waaaaay too much food and enjoy!