This charming dining room/wine bar/wine shop does the modern seasonal British thing on crack. Think a hunk bone marrow swimming in an uncontrollably delicious soup of garlic oil and snails or perfectly-cooked sweetbreads delicately arranged round smooth and creamy chicken liver pâté and interspersed with pickled onions. If you’re feeling less adventurous, simple dishes like roast beef or lamb chops are bloody good too. Sit in the bar and gorge on a selection of (generously-proportioned) “small” plates or take advantage of the opportunity to reserve one of the cosy wooden booths in the dining room and tuck into the daily-changing menu on offer. The only downside is that the place is a bit of a nightmare for big groups. They can only accommodate groups of more than 6 in the private dining room, which has a minimum spend of £500, a bit steep when the set menu’s only £30 a head.