Let’s not get over-excited. Vignt Quatre is as bog standard as they come. The food is uninspiring, diner stuff. Tastes OK, though the prices will likely make you wince, especially after the watershed at 11pm. But – and this is crucial – it is open 24-hours a day. That, in London, is as rare as good weather and enough to make this place beloved by the Chelsea rahvers, who inevitably stumble over after a night on the King’s Road – often to continue drinking. That can make the whole vibe a bit annoying, especially if you get stuck queuing in the rain (remember what we said about London and the weather). And yet, sometimes, at 4 in the morning, when hope of finding alternative sustenance is faint, the warm, glowing windows of Vignt Quatre are like a beacon to the hungry masses (of Chelsea).