London abounds with gastropubs, that promise the world and deliver a damp squib, but this place does it right. Hearty British grub, with the now obligatory nod towards nose-to-tail eating, is done exceptionally well on this cosy little corner in Waterloo. The fact that this place is one of the only decent places to eat in the vicinity wins it even more bonus points. It also means that it’s usually heaving, and of course, no reservations except for lunch on Sundays. Never fear-the adjoining bar is a lovely, casual place to enjoy a prepandial – just don’t go starving hungry.